European Capital of Culture 2022 and UNESCO World Heritage City, Kaunas is full of beautiful architecture and artwork. It’s the second biggest city in Lithuania with a population of just under 400,000 people; the whole country has around 2.8 million people. My spouse and I visited last weekend and had a lovely time, despite the unusually cold weather (it snowed!). It may seem to be a bit of a random choice to some, but we got a great deal on flights through Wizz Air, and I always love exploring new and different places.
After a 7am flight, we arrived at our hotel around lunchtime and were lucky enough to be able to check in straight away. Dagirdas Old City Hotel is in the heart of the Old Town, just a stone’s throw from the Old Town Square and numerous historic buildings.
We left our bags (we’d only brought a small backpack each to keep the flights cheap!) and went straight out for lunch. On the square were a few restuarants and we found a lovely one called Soul with traditional dishes on the menu. We shared a goat’s cheese salad, cheese doughnut duo and potato pancakes with cheese-spinach cream – all delicious.
After lunch, we began exploring the old part of the city and headed towards the castle. Kaunas Castle was originally built in the 14th century and is the city’s oldest landmark. It was destroyed and rebuilt more than once, with a major restoration in 2010, although parts of the original castle still remain. It is now a small museum as well, and there are great views of the city and nearby Neris River from the viewing platform at the top of the tower.
As the castle was full of students on a school trip when we got there, we decided to go for a walk through Santakos Park down to the confluence of the Neris and Nemunas Rivers. The views across the rivers and around the park were lovely. Although the sun was out intermittently, it hailed for a few minutes and we were very glad we’d worn our big winter coats!
We then headed back to the castle, by which time the students had all gone, and explored the museum inside the castle tower.
After that, it was time for some refreshments. Nearby was a chocolate cafe, CH Chocolaterie, so of course we had to go there. The cake (caramel for me and chocolate for my other half) and hot chocolate were delicious, and we bought a few handmade chocolates to take home with us as well.
We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around the old town, finding random works of art and admiring the historic buildings, before finding a traditional Lithuania restaurant for dinner, Bernelių Užeiga.
We weren’t very hungry as we were still full of chocolate and cake, so we ordered smaller dishes to try – beetroot soup and baked Lithuanian cheese, which were, once again, delicious.
The next day, we set off for Laisvés Avenue, one of the longest pedstrian streets in Europe at just over a mile long. On the way, we had some traditional Lithuanian dumplings at a wonderful little café and bakery called Dviratis Ir Gitara. We had one portion filled with vegetables and the other filled with curd cheese and spinach, both of which were served with sour cream and really tasty. They had a huge selection of cakes, cookies and pastries, which we couldn’t resist trying as well. We shared one of their traditional varškės spurgos (curd cheese doughnuts), freshly baked, followed by a different kind of ring doughnut filled with pistachio cream.
Full of delicious food, we set off along the pedestrian street, and came across the longest market I’ve ever been to. We didn’t buy anything, but it was fascinating to look at all the different stalls selling everything from fish smoked right in front of you to pastries, cakes, cheese, and meat, as well as all kinds of clothes, hats, candles, gifts, and more, interspersed with murals, sculptures, other works of art, and more historic buildings. At the far end of the street was St. Michael the Archangel (Garrison) Church, which was built in 1895; a very impressive building you could see from a long way down the street.
After a quick stop for hot chocolate and to warm up (there was the occasional flurry of snow in amongst the rain!), we headed for Unity Square where there are several statues and sculptures, including the Freedom Monument and War Memorial with its eternal fire.
Our final stop before dinner was the Yard Gallery – a once derelict courtyard surrounded by apartments, which has been turned into an open air gallery by artist Vytenis Jakas with help from other artists and neigbours.
Dinner was at Avilys, another restaurant with traditional dishes on the menu. We had hoped to try the cepelinai, traditional potato dumplings, but they only had ones stuffed with meat, not cheese as we were hoping. Instead, we had cheese doughnuts and fried bread with cheese sauce as starters, then I had ravioli with mascarpone, walnuts and sage sauce and my spouse had risotto with boletus (mushroom) and spinach, all of which was really good.
In the morning, we had a final walk across the Old Town square and along the pedestrian street to grab a quick breakfast at one of the cafés before our taxi to the airport.
Kaunas is a lovely, quiet city with lots to see and do. I’d definitely recommend a visit if you get the chance.